@TimothyWong I tried different strength settings already with no effect on the tendency of them to break. On other creations I have shocks modded to way higher strengths with no problems, on my Raptor GT and GTR they are beyond 70000% to prevent pitching of the chassis, but those don't have to face huge bumps anyways. Some other things I noticed are that stacked shocks sometimes bug into each other and then all shocks on the vehicle stop working (not only the bugged ones) and sometimes they detach from their mounting points. It doesn't even require hard jumps for this to happen. Putting them at an angle reduces the force applied to them and that seems to help it.
On the A-10 the HUD can show you a constantly computed impact point (CCIP) on the ground or a constantly computed release point (CCRP) in the air when you have locked a target. They did this with tech from the 70s, so it should be an extremely low load for modern CPUs, even mobile ones. The problem would be to make it work with all plane configurations, detach forces and different distances between cockpit and bombs. It doesn't have to take all variables into calculation though, as it only needs to estimate the impact point. 100% accuracy is not really needed. The minimum variables required would be airspeed, angle of attack, altitude above the ground, drag and weight of the bomb (to calculate the rate at which the bomb loses horizontal speed) and the vertical acceleration caused by gravitation (9.81m/s²) - drag. I don't have a formula at hand though and maybe drag can be left out of the calculation as it is pretty low. WarThunder also shows you a big circle on the ground when you have bombs equipped, showing you an estimated impact point depending on your airspeed, altitude and angle of attack.
@TimothyWong I can only make them stiffer or softer, but nothing of that stops them from breaking. I also tried adding more shocks so that each shock has even less load, but it didn't help. Maybe it can help putting them at an angle, that's what I didn't try yet as it makes attaching way harder. Edit: Putting them at 15° angle helped a lot and wasn't too hard. Shocks can still break sometimes when you do larger jumps, but it's much less likely to ocassionally break on smaller jumps. I've also added brake lights and a proper interior with steering wheel, brake and gas pedals. Braketorque is also increased and the fuel-tank resized to fit better into the back. I'll upload it later when more users are active.
Breaking the shocks is so easy on vehicles that heavy, even when you got 64 of them (yes, I've tried stacking four on top of each other already). We really need some bigbore heavy-duty shocks in addition to the small ones. :/
He said he wanted a chassis for a monstertruck, not for a pickup truck. And that it should cover 3/4 of the grey circle, not 1/4. :D You may want to take a look at my Crawling Frog, it has the same suspension that monstertrucks use and it has around that size, so it should give you a good idea on how to build the chassis for that truck. I also just uploaded a pack of modded engines and shocks you might want to use. :)
@Mod But those are very lightweight then I guess. Most cars in SP are 10000-18000 lbs. For a street car I can't use anything below 2000% strength and I don't see much of a change in strength with these 10% steps. I think I'll release a pack of modded shocks for mobile users and others who can't mod them on their own.
@hopotumon Lol, yeah I thought about naming schemes for chassis and that of Tamiya directly came into my mind, so I chose something similar. SC for Street Chassis, T for twin-engine, R for rear-wheel drive and then a version number in the back. :D
@Mod I'm really good at making chassis it seems, but it takes several hours of testing and optimization. Especially on this one, as it has the tendency to lift wheels when doing sharp cornering and tipping over. :D I just want to make clear that the base design is not made by me.
The pedals could also be improved. Right now they are pushed in by default and come out when they should actually be pushed. The pistons have to be reversed and the pedals put at an angle in their default position. I thought it was too much work as it isn't that much of an eye catcher anyway. :D
Currently I'm thinking about how I could make a proper racing suspension. My SC-TR02 is good, but I want something better and stiffer that can get away without XML-modding the shocks. They are just way too soft by default. We need 50% steps from 50% to 500% and the base has to be multiplied by 10 to make them more useful without mounting them directly on the wheels. Almost nobody uses them below their maximum of 250% and those who can mod them to be way stiffer at 1000% or higher.
@Mod I hoped that you would like it. As you are the original creator, your opinion matters the most to me. :D I saw your Crawly Bugger already, but didn't try it yet. Shall it have a highly flexible crawler suspension? For a real crawler I also have some ideas on how to modify the engines. Setting the max variable below 1 in the XML reduces the RPM. If the calculations are done like physics work in reality, then this should increase torque when HP is also adjusted upwards. The HP setting determines power output at maximum RPM of the engine in SP. By setting the maximum lower you lose RPM and the actual maximum HP will be lower than what it is set to. Less maximum RPM and more maximum HP = more torque. I need some more testing on how it really works in SP though. :D
@Liquidfox @Norman0rumeral It looks a bit like a reptile or dinosaur, so I called it Raptor GT. Exterior is pretty much finished, I'm going to make the interior now and then configure the suspension. Maybe I'll also need to mod the engines. You don't see a 5 ton sportscar everyday. :D
@HellFireKoder It's just easier to understand for other people when we just call it kraken. :D This game could get USK18 rating in Germany now lololololol.
@WalrusAircraft I couldn't drift the original because it would always spin out and I currently only have a crappy controller with very unprecise analog sticks, as a plastic bearing in my joystick broke down. :D Which version is your Evo? I like the IX (9) the most. The Evo X looks too bulky in my opinion because it's higher, but a lot of tuned ones with bodykits look really good.
@WalrusAircraft Thanks! :D Would be cool if you could also try the original by Mod (look at the predecessor) and tell me if I made the handling better or worse in your opinion. :) Now I have to think about how to control it during a jump, that would make landing a lot easier when speeding through the desert again. :D
@TheRemesy One part of the right wing has more drag while the other part has no drag, but overall the drag of the wings should be equal. I mirrored those parts several times now and they always have the same drag. Also the pitot tube makes no real difference. Even when it's not attached it makes a slight right turn on the first few metres and then goes on straight. Very awkward behavior, but it only affects the start of the acceleration up to ~100 MPH, then it goes completely straight.
@TheRemesy I mirrored the wings so they have exactly the same amount of drag. The 1.3 version had problems with the wings having different drag, this one doesn't. Except for the pitot tube, there's nothing asymmetric in the drag model, so I suspect that to be the reason.
@JacobHardy64 Well, atleast I hope I got rid of all the malfunctioning. Especially weapon launches were critical until some hours ago. :D The drag of the pitot tube makes it go to the right when starting on the ground by the way, needs a bit of rudder input to keep it straight on takeoff.
@PhilipTarpley Exactly that. But it only happened at supersonic speeds. At ~600 MPH they just drop down like they should. I also tested them on pylons with different detach forces in supersonic flight. At 30% they barely fall, at 50% they fall like at 600 MPH without detach force and at 80% they fall quick enough to allow maneuvering right after release. Somehow they seem to gain lift. This needs some more testing maybe. I watched all this in slowmotion, but it also happened at normal game speed.
@JacobHardy64 Basically you can just put on the weapons yourself from the menu, but I thought it's more convenient to have all weapons that were tested with the design right there to just put on those you need and delete the others. When you want another loadout, you just load the full creation again and it's reset. Also you can make versions with your preferred loadouts and save them, then load them anytime you need them. :)
@TheRealCarpy Look into his eyes. It's a cave actually. Very hard to get into even in slowmotion. But getting out again is the real challenge.
@PhilipTarpley I noticed Bomb 25s flying upwards after detaching from structural panels in level flight at supersonic speeds. They hit the wings and explode. Shouldn't they fall down like they used to actually? :D Guess I have to use detachers with lots of detach force now or fly subsonic.
@Delphant Take off from Wright airport and fly heading 210. Sky Park City is very colorful and very close to the Wright Isles, you can't miss it.
@PhilipTarpley The Kraken is damn scary. Is there anything to achieve? I'm trying to fly through it all the time to see if there's an achievement or anything. I hate that whispering. :D
@Delphirier In SimplePlanes it can't be completely realistic, but you can make one that cruises on the water surface and has a ton of bombs in it's head. :D
@ValtsuAircraftIndustries But the posts with the tournament details come every Monday. Nobody can enter without them, so if the tournament starts on Sunday, it won't last very long without any entries.
@kikasshes Those are also cool, but if I had RC planes, I would solder a stick and throttle to the emitter inputs and get an FPV-system for a realistic and immersive feel. :D
@Nickasaurus The T.16000m? Yeah, it's just that little throttle slider. Very inconvenient. The sensor for X- and Y-axes is the best in the market (same as in the Warthog stick) and it has a lot of buttons for a stick though. I don't like that the wires are all so thin and unprotected and hanging in the mechanics, mine broke a lot of times already. Right at the moment I'm sitting here soldering the wire of the middle thumb button together again. Wrapping duct tape around them helped a lot, but still they can break sometimes. I would also like a better gimbal mechanic out of aluminium and with ball bearings, but I don't have the tools to make that. :D
@Nickasaurus My joystick is a Thrustmaster T.16000m. What I need is a good throttle. I probably could've gone with the Thrustmaster Warthog throttle for almost the same price, but I want more buttons, oil dampers and some synthetic leather for comfort. :D
@Nickasaurus I haven't done any molds before, so I hope it works out well with silicone from the DIY-shop. :D I'm using the molds to make the grips out of fibreglass then. The base will get a ton of buttons and switches, so I won't have to use my keyboard primarily for all the targeting functions and systems in the A-10C anymore. :D
@Nickasaurus Doesn't have to be that soon. I'm still busy building my throttle, haven't even made the molds of the grips yet and I still have to order the controller. :D
@NovaTopaz In the last stream they said it's going to be posted on Monday. Maybe they are waiting until they can release the next update, so that everyone has the new Lunar Arc circuit, as that's what they wanted to run the next Tournament on. But they could've just replaced it with one of the other courses.
@TimothyWong I tried different strength settings already with no effect on the tendency of them to break. On other creations I have shocks modded to way higher strengths with no problems, on my Raptor GT and GTR they are beyond 70000% to prevent pitching of the chassis, but those don't have to face huge bumps anyways. Some other things I noticed are that stacked shocks sometimes bug into each other and then all shocks on the vehicle stop working (not only the bugged ones) and sometimes they detach from their mounting points. It doesn't even require hard jumps for this to happen. Putting them at an angle reduces the force applied to them and that seems to help it.
On the A-10 the HUD can show you a constantly computed impact point (CCIP) on the ground or a constantly computed release point (CCRP) in the air when you have locked a target. They did this with tech from the 70s, so it should be an extremely low load for modern CPUs, even mobile ones. The problem would be to make it work with all plane configurations, detach forces and different distances between cockpit and bombs. It doesn't have to take all variables into calculation though, as it only needs to estimate the impact point. 100% accuracy is not really needed. The minimum variables required would be airspeed, angle of attack, altitude above the ground, drag and weight of the bomb (to calculate the rate at which the bomb loses horizontal speed) and the vertical acceleration caused by gravitation (9.81m/s²) - drag. I don't have a formula at hand though and maybe drag can be left out of the calculation as it is pretty low. WarThunder also shows you a big circle on the ground when you have bombs equipped, showing you an estimated impact point depending on your airspeed, altitude and angle of attack.
@TimothyWong I can only make them stiffer or softer, but nothing of that stops them from breaking. I also tried adding more shocks so that each shock has even less load, but it didn't help. Maybe it can help putting them at an angle, that's what I didn't try yet as it makes attaching way harder. Edit: Putting them at 15° angle helped a lot and wasn't too hard. Shocks can still break sometimes when you do larger jumps, but it's much less likely to ocassionally break on smaller jumps. I've also added brake lights and a proper interior with steering wheel, brake and gas pedals. Braketorque is also increased and the fuel-tank resized to fit better into the back. I'll upload it later when more users are active.
Breaking the shocks is so easy on vehicles that heavy, even when you got 64 of them (yes, I've tried stacking four on top of each other already). We really need some bigbore heavy-duty shocks in addition to the small ones. :/
He said he wanted a chassis for a monstertruck, not for a pickup truck. And that it should cover 3/4 of the grey circle, not 1/4. :D You may want to take a look at my Crawling Frog, it has the same suspension that monstertrucks use and it has around that size, so it should give you a good idea on how to build the chassis for that truck. I also just uploaded a pack of modded engines and shocks you might want to use. :)
@Mod But those are very lightweight then I guess. Most cars in SP are 10000-18000 lbs. For a street car I can't use anything below 2000% strength and I don't see much of a change in strength with these 10% steps. I think I'll release a pack of modded shocks for mobile users and others who can't mod them on their own.
@hopotumon Lol, yeah I thought about naming schemes for chassis and that of Tamiya directly came into my mind, so I chose something similar. SC for Street Chassis, T for twin-engine, R for rear-wheel drive and then a version number in the back. :D
@Mod I'm really good at making chassis it seems, but it takes several hours of testing and optimization. Especially on this one, as it has the tendency to lift wheels when doing sharp cornering and tipping over. :D I just want to make clear that the base design is not made by me.
The pedals could also be improved. Right now they are pushed in by default and come out when they should actually be pushed. The pistons have to be reversed and the pedals put at an angle in their default position. I thought it was too much work as it isn't that much of an eye catcher anyway. :D
Currently I'm thinking about how I could make a proper racing suspension. My SC-TR02 is good, but I want something better and stiffer that can get away without XML-modding the shocks. They are just way too soft by default. We need 50% steps from 50% to 500% and the base has to be multiplied by 10 to make them more useful without mounting them directly on the wheels. Almost nobody uses them below their maximum of 250% and those who can mod them to be way stiffer at 1000% or higher.
@UnknownNate Thanks! I hope you also find that the handling is great. :D
We need to develop some legs and feet with pistons to make it more realistic. :D Back to the oldschool.
I jumped off a cliff at Rattlesnake Racetrack and discovered the secret cabriolet mode:
If that's not durable, I don't know what is.
@Mod Everything's fixed and my crawler suspension works like a charm, you'll love it.
It's proving grounds tested:
And when doing large highspeed jumps it also breaks realistically:
Only need to adjust the engines and maybe increase damper strength while reducing spring strength. It also has all-wheel-steering now.
@Mod I just found the problem. One of the updates totally scrambled with your designs as it seems. Just take a look at this:
I wonder how it still drives actually. And for some reason your pedals and the shifter still work lol.
@Mod I hoped that you would like it. As you are the original creator, your opinion matters the most to me. :D I saw your Crawly Bugger already, but didn't try it yet. Shall it have a highly flexible crawler suspension? For a real crawler I also have some ideas on how to modify the engines. Setting the max variable below 1 in the XML reduces the RPM. If the calculations are done like physics work in reality, then this should increase torque when HP is also adjusted upwards. The HP setting determines power output at maximum RPM of the engine in SP. By setting the maximum lower you lose RPM and the actual maximum HP will be lower than what it is set to. Less maximum RPM and more maximum HP = more torque. I need some more testing on how it really works in SP though. :D
@HarperAstrionics Thanks! I kept it up and made a race spec version. :)
@Liquidfox @Norman0rumeral Just released the Raptor.
I feel the need for some handling improvements though. Gotta make a stiffer suspension design.
@Liquidfox This is the Saleen S5S Raptor by the way:
@Liquidfox @Norman0rumeral It looks a bit like a reptile or dinosaur, so I called it Raptor GT. Exterior is pretty much finished, I'm going to make the interior now and then configure the suspension. Maybe I'll also need to mod the engines. You don't see a 5 ton sportscar everyday. :D
Here are some more shots:
@HellFireKoder It's just easier to understand for other people when we just call it kraken. :D This game could get USK18 rating in Germany now lololololol.
@WalrusAircraft Maybe better keep the racing springs on. :D You never know what'll come at you.
I'm currently thinking about setting my racing wheel and shifter up and build some SimpleCars. :D The pedal set is always sitting below my desk.
@WalrusAircraft Looks super clean. It's lowered some inches, isn't it? Very sad they won't continue the Evo series.
@WalrusAircraft I couldn't drift the original because it would always spin out and I currently only have a crappy controller with very unprecise analog sticks, as a plastic bearing in my joystick broke down. :D Which version is your Evo? I like the IX (9) the most. The Evo X looks too bulky in my opinion because it's higher, but a lot of tuned ones with bodykits look really good.
@WalrusAircraft Thanks! :D Would be cool if you could also try the original by Mod (look at the predecessor) and tell me if I made the handling better or worse in your opinion. :) Now I have to think about how to control it during a jump, that would make landing a lot easier when speeding through the desert again. :D
@poophead5 It's just the prebuilt car made by the devs and it's included in the game by default...
@JDM You need a link to the image (it has to be uploaded to the internet).
@TheRemesy What and where are you streaming? :)
@TheRemesy One part of the right wing has more drag while the other part has no drag, but overall the drag of the wings should be equal. I mirrored those parts several times now and they always have the same drag. Also the pitot tube makes no real difference. Even when it's not attached it makes a slight right turn on the first few metres and then goes on straight. Very awkward behavior, but it only affects the start of the acceleration up to ~100 MPH, then it goes completely straight.
@TheRemesy I mirrored the wings so they have exactly the same amount of drag. The 1.3 version had problems with the wings having different drag, this one doesn't. Except for the pitot tube, there's nothing asymmetric in the drag model, so I suspect that to be the reason.
@JacobHardy64 Well, atleast I hope I got rid of all the malfunctioning. Especially weapon launches were critical until some hours ago. :D The drag of the pitot tube makes it go to the right when starting on the ground by the way, needs a bit of rudder input to keep it straight on takeoff.
@PhilipTarpley Exactly that. But it only happened at supersonic speeds. At ~600 MPH they just drop down like they should. I also tested them on pylons with different detach forces in supersonic flight. At 30% they barely fall, at 50% they fall like at 600 MPH without detach force and at 80% they fall quick enough to allow maneuvering right after release. Somehow they seem to gain lift. This needs some more testing maybe. I watched all this in slowmotion, but it also happened at normal game speed.
@JacobHardy64 The problem I had was just making a very good design even better. It's hard to improve something that's already top notch. :D
@JacobHardy64 Basically you can just put on the weapons yourself from the menu, but I thought it's more convenient to have all weapons that were tested with the design right there to just put on those you need and delete the others. When you want another loadout, you just load the full creation again and it's reset. Also you can make versions with your preferred loadouts and save them, then load them anytime you need them. :)
@TheRealCarpy Look into his eyes. It's a cave actually. Very hard to get into even in slowmotion. But getting out again is the real challenge.
@PhilipTarpley I noticed Bomb 25s flying upwards after detaching from structural panels in level flight at supersonic speeds. They hit the wings and explode. Shouldn't they fall down like they used to actually? :D Guess I have to use detachers with lots of detach force now or fly subsonic.
@Delphant Take off from Wright airport and fly heading 210. Sky Park City is very colorful and very close to the Wright Isles, you can't miss it.
@PhilipTarpley The Kraken is damn scary. Is there anything to achieve? I'm trying to fly through it all the time to see if there's an achievement or anything. I hate that whispering. :D
+1Probably wasn't a good plane, but a good rocket. :D
Looks like a solid entry, will test it soon. :)
@Delphirier In SimplePlanes it can't be completely realistic, but you can make one that cruises on the water surface and has a ton of bombs in it's head. :D
@Halfstrike @Pauciloquent @bskngshrk Deadline has been delayed to next Saturday due to the lack of entries. :)
@GrumpyRacing Andrew is doing the tournaments pretty much solo it seemed to me.
@ValtsuAircraftIndustries But the posts with the tournament details come every Monday. Nobody can enter without them, so if the tournament starts on Sunday, it won't last very long without any entries.
@kikasshes Those are also cool, but if I had RC planes, I would solder a stick and throttle to the emitter inputs and get an FPV-system for a realistic and immersive feel. :D
"erect the rocket in vertical position" :D
@Nickasaurus The T.16000m? Yeah, it's just that little throttle slider. Very inconvenient. The sensor for X- and Y-axes is the best in the market (same as in the Warthog stick) and it has a lot of buttons for a stick though. I don't like that the wires are all so thin and unprotected and hanging in the mechanics, mine broke a lot of times already. Right at the moment I'm sitting here soldering the wire of the middle thumb button together again. Wrapping duct tape around them helped a lot, but still they can break sometimes. I would also like a better gimbal mechanic out of aluminium and with ball bearings, but I don't have the tools to make that. :D
@Nickasaurus My joystick is a Thrustmaster T.16000m. What I need is a good throttle. I probably could've gone with the Thrustmaster Warthog throttle for almost the same price, but I want more buttons, oil dampers and some synthetic leather for comfort. :D
@AgDynamics Same here. Maybe Andrew just forgot to post it or his hard drive died. Nobody knows.
@Nickasaurus I haven't done any molds before, so I hope it works out well with silicone from the DIY-shop. :D I'm using the molds to make the grips out of fibreglass then. The base will get a ton of buttons and switches, so I won't have to use my keyboard primarily for all the targeting functions and systems in the A-10C anymore. :D
@Nickasaurus Doesn't have to be that soon. I'm still busy building my throttle, haven't even made the molds of the grips yet and I still have to order the controller. :D
@Nickasaurus The offer of escorting you in DCS multiplayer or joining you in an A-10C or Su-25T for some ground attacks is still vaild by the way. :D
@NovaTopaz Yep. It's normally always posted on the next day after the Tournament.
@NovaTopaz In the last stream they said it's going to be posted on Monday. Maybe they are waiting until they can release the next update, so that everyone has the new Lunar Arc circuit, as that's what they wanted to run the next Tournament on. But they could've just replaced it with one of the other courses.
@jsaret Normally they post it on Monday. I'm looking for it everyday, but nothing there yet.