@MA2211CwCABaerospace I have that problem from time to time. My solution is to make lots of connections between the actual wing, the fuselage and the wing segments you build around it. Just one connection won't do. You need at least a connection of the wing base with the fuselage, the fuselage wing structure with the fuselage and wing base and at least one between the wing center and the structure.
Please explain 'simple': is it a maximum number of parts? Standard blocks only? No interior? No rotators? I'm wondering how detailed I can make. 1940's classic prop and still be within the 'simple' limits.
@Supersoli8
Ok.... (Step 0, before trying to open the doors, consider adding three long-legged retractable landing gear legs to the plane: one in the front and two under the wings. Opening the bomb bay will be a lot easier to watch if the bomb bay doors have some space to rotate.) Step1: take a standard square block and a hinge rotator. Turn the rotator until the main body is up and the tip is down. Then move it over the block. If it hasn't connected by itself, open the connections tab and connect the lower arrow of the rotator to the top arrow of the block. Start your plane on any airfield. The block should now be visible with the rotator sticking out. If you move VTOL, the rotator should rotate forward and back. Step 2: move the rotator with block to the bottom of your plane. If the rotator doesn't connect by itself, open the Attachment Editor tab and 'add a connection': connect the top arrow of the rotator to the bottom or side of your fuselage block. Run again and check if now the rotator moves through block.
If it doesn't, again open the connections tab and make sure the block is connected only to the rotator. If this doesn't help, delete ann connections on the rotator and once again connect the top arrow of the rotator to the fuselage and the bottom arrow to the dock
Step 3:scale the rotator block to 0.5,1,0.2 and use the placement tool to move it to the place you want to connect the bomb bay doors. Again go to the airfield and again test if the block still rotates. If it doesn't, check the connections again. Step 4: now delete all connections of the block, then delete the block. Instead move one of your bomb bay pieces to the location and snap it into place. Then delete all connections and reconnect it to the hinge rotator only. Important hollow fuselages have a strange way of connecting. You deliberately have to connect the bottom arrow of the rotator to the side arrow of the hollow fuselage piece. You might have to try a couple of times to get this right. Go to the runway and test the bomb bay opening. If you got it right, it should work without problems. If it doesn't, go back to the construction screen and check the connections of the bomb bay pieces. It should be connected only to the rotator. If this still doesn't help, delete this connection also and reconnect again, making sure you connect the bottom arrow of the hinge rotator to the side arrow of the hollow fuselage bomb bay door piece. Go to the airfield aga
I actually don't see a problem there. The rotators work fine as long as you connect them to the SIDES of the hollow pieces. You just have to think of the pieces of hollow blocks you use for the bomb bay as actual blocks and connect the rotators likewise. Here I connect the bottom to the bay door
@canadianavgeek853 finally:;the plane has trouble keeping straight when taking off due to the long wing. Consider increasing the surface of the vertical stabilizer.
@canadianavgeek853 also: the plane is very sensitive on roll- input. You can make tht ailerons smaller or slimmer or if you have the overload editor installed, you can click the wing and in the editor select 'controlsurface' and set the 'maximumdedlection' to a lower value like from 35° to 20. That worked wonderful on my copy.
Also, apparently you have two ailerons per wing, so close together they look like one. Consider deleting one of them and edit the other to span the whole length of the wings
@canadianavgeek853 ok. First off: You can delete he orbit camera as it doesn't do anything in this plane. Basically an orbit camera gives you the same functionality as the standard camera that comes with your cockpit. But if the camera somehow gets detached from the plane, the views follow the camera. Typically you use the camera for something like a launchable parachutist or a ship's sloop so you can follow the choose between following the aircraft flying on or the parachutist jumping (or the ship and the sloop.) Here, as you already have a cockpit with camera, you won't need the extra one.
Whish I would have known about your problems with the cowling. We have one of them parked at our local airport. Some local enthusiast with too much money spends his time restoring and flying it.
@WinsWings works pretty good. In fact I got most of my starting knowledge from this tutorial . My only gripe is that the RCN nozzles could be explained better. (From what I know now) They are SimplePlanes' solution to moving the plane in hover mode
Love this plane. It's well thought-out with many details other builders, especially with less than one year of experience, either overlook or don't care about. Also, again like many other planes of builders with more experience, the flying characteristics are pleasant and generally free of vices. And the incide view from the cockpit adds a nice layer of complexity. Congratulations.
@WinsWings then you might consider changing the input for the rear engine from ' 'Throttle' to 'Throttle+a*Trim+b*Pitch' with a around 0.5 and b about 0.2. the exact numbers will depend on tht aircraft and will have to be tweaked by lots of flight testing.
Look how I did with my Golden Rocketship. The front bottom 2 engines do the trim, the Pitch is added to the rear bottom 2 engines. (The clamp(rate(Altitude)-0.5, -1,0) factor is the automatic descent control. It kicks in when the rate of descent is bigger than 0.5....)
@Ninja451 if you need some ideas on how to make a wing brake, a year ago, I uploaded a demonstrator aircraft that uses a dummy wing bureied inside the main wing to 'pull out' air brakes. May be you can take a look.
Nice upgrade from the previous plane. However still no limiter on the engine travel, meaning you can crash it k to your own fuselage if you're not carefully and pull Trim too far down. Also for my taste it relies too much on the gyro with for instance roll and yaw not even possible by areodynamical means (ailerons and rudders are for show only). Still visually a feast to behold
@Ninja451 couple pf quick things:
1) The vertical control surfaces on the twin fins move the wrong way Change the value for 'control.surface-invert' from False to true
2) set the value for auto-center for tht cockpit camera from 'true' to 'false' so you can look around in tht cockpit
3) the joystick in the cockpit has a value 'length' play with it until you can just see the top of the joystick.while looking straight ahead
Also:
+ The writings on the switches in the Cockpit are really hard to read. May be use a different color
+ Landing is really hard. You need to at least quadruple tht since of tht air brakes to have any effect: increase their 'drag' value, use a large dummy wing as air brake or five the plane a braking parachute.
I have no problems with taking off. Just pull the flaps, increase throttle slowly and the plane will take off by itself. Landing, like you said is a little trickier. But just keeping the throttle at 10% instead of zero until your wheels hit the tarmac usually will do. For a taildragger braking is remarkably trouble-free. No rolling over when you brake too hard... Most of the time
Three inprovement suggestions:
1) when you put the throttle governor at 0% it always runs the rotor at optimal speed, regardless wether the power is on or off. Set it to 5% so it won't rotate until you push Activate1. (Do this for main and tail rotor)
2) if you use the flight controller instead of the standard cockpit, make sure the controller is installed with the flat past facing down otherwise your 'chase view' will be upside down. Rotate the one you installed from 180° back to 0
3) set the roll range of your gyroscope to something like 20° instead of 0 in order otherwise the gyro directly counteracts all the roll input from the right joystick.
Otherwise a pretty nice heli to fly around in. Especially for only 68 parts
Forget the crop duster. You should market this one as an ULM. With a top speed of 100 mph and a stall speed of 50, it comes pretty close to that ULM feeling.
Plus sides: beautifully historically accurate cockpit, even for only 200 parts. Minus: no flaps, still standard wings. Flying: pretty pleasant, although I would wish for a top speed more like the original's 500 mph.
Worth downloading: yes
Worth flying: yes
Worth upvoting: just did
I second @DARZAVIATION: it would be nice to choose which parts you do NOT want to mirror I keep having that -well, it's not really a problem, rather an inconvenience- that if I have to redo something on both sides of the plane and I already have a cockpit interior, I can either do both sides by hand or mirror and redo the cockpit ( all instruments and flight controls are mirrored by default. I think just having an offset to define which CENTER Or FUSELAGE parts should not be mirrored would already go a long way.
The same thing with flaps and ailerons, especially when you use funky code to mix ailerons with pitch or flaps. When you mirror your wing, you are almost certain to have to rewrite half of the code. I could live though with just the option: replace parts already mirrored/leave parts already mirrored for leaving the old wing as is even if you replace the tips.
Not bad for 72 parts. And a nice color scheme as well (I would have wished for some insignias though) . Also the first thing I had to do is put 200 lb of extra weight in the nose to keep it from constantly stalling
Aermachi? Looks more like a Mig15 designed by Studio Ghibli!
+1@MA2211CwCABaerospace I have that problem from time to time. My solution is to make lots of connections between the actual wing, the fuselage and the wing segments you build around it. Just one connection won't do. You need at least a connection of the wing base with the fuselage, the fuselage wing structure with the fuselage and wing base and at least one between the wing center and the structure.
+1@NewWorldAerospace aww. Okay. May be I'll take a swing at it with my own copter when I'm done with my other commitments
+1@NewWorldAerospace I'll keep an eye out for the finished plane. Curious about that weight shifting ever since I tried making a hang glider
+1How do you steer the craft? Differential rotor speeds? Tilting rotors? Or hidden thrust gyros?
+1@GorillaGuerrilla I guess I have to study that then. Chances are whatever I wanted to demonstrate, it's already done twice as good.
+1Please explain 'simple': is it a maximum number of parts? Standard blocks only? No interior? No rotators? I'm wondering how detailed I can make. 1940's classic prop and still be within the 'simple' limits.
+1Love it. Eagerly awaiting the version with instruments on the console
+1Great plane. It says something when my only gripe about it is that it flies so easy that flying it gets boring after a while
+1Love the details
+1Nice design, love the aesthetic, but honestly, the wing needs to get moved back a whole unit until the thing is even flyable.
+1@WinsWings
+1https://docs.google.com/document/d/1NmEgmyQN0wJi1kh8AinAXG5FaNO9YBguuWmJPsl-dnc
Here you go...
@Supersoli8
Ok....
(Step 0, before trying to open the doors, consider adding three long-legged retractable landing gear legs to the plane: one in the front and two under the wings. Opening the bomb bay will be a lot easier to watch if the bomb bay doors have some space to rotate.)
Step1: take a standard square block and a hinge rotator. Turn the rotator until the main body is up and the tip is down. Then move it over the block. If it hasn't connected by itself, open the connections tab and connect the lower arrow of the rotator to the top arrow of the block. Start your plane on any airfield. The block should now be visible with the rotator sticking out. If you move VTOL, the rotator should rotate forward and back.
Step 2: move the rotator with block to the bottom of your plane. If the rotator doesn't connect by itself, open the Attachment Editor tab and 'add a connection': connect the top arrow of the rotator to the bottom or side of your fuselage block. Run again and check if now the rotator moves through block.
If it doesn't, again open the connections tab and make sure the block is connected only to the rotator. If this doesn't help, delete ann connections on the rotator and once again connect the top arrow of the rotator to the fuselage and the bottom arrow to the dock
Step 3:scale the rotator block to 0.5,1,0.2 and use the placement tool to move it to the place you want to connect the bomb bay doors. Again go to the airfield and again test if the block still rotates. If it doesn't, check the connections again.
+1Step 4: now delete all connections of the block, then delete the block. Instead move one of your bomb bay pieces to the location and snap it into place. Then delete all connections and reconnect it to the hinge rotator only.
Important hollow fuselages have a strange way of connecting. You deliberately have to connect the bottom arrow of the rotator to the side arrow of the hollow fuselage piece. You might have to try a couple of times to get this right. Go to the runway and test the bomb bay opening. If you got it right, it should work without problems. If it doesn't, go back to the construction screen and check the connections of the bomb bay pieces. It should be connected only to the rotator. If this still doesn't help, delete this connection also and reconnect again, making sure you connect the bottom arrow of the hinge rotator to the side arrow of the hollow fuselage bomb bay door piece. Go to the airfield aga
I actually don't see a problem there. The rotators work fine as long as you connect them to the SIDES of the hollow pieces. You just have to think of the pieces of hollow blocks you use for the bomb bay as actual blocks and connect the rotators likewise.
+1Here I connect the bottom to the bay door
@canadianavgeek853 finally:;the plane has trouble keeping straight when taking off due to the long wing. Consider increasing the surface of the vertical stabilizer.
But that it for now
+1@canadianavgeek853 also: the plane is very sensitive on roll- input. You can make tht ailerons smaller or slimmer or if you have the overload editor installed, you can click the wing and in the editor select 'controlsurface' and set the 'maximumdedlection' to a lower value like from 35° to 20. That worked wonderful on my copy.
Also, apparently you have two ailerons per wing, so close together they look like one. Consider deleting one of them and edit the other to span the whole length of the wings
+1@canadianavgeek853 ok. First off: You can delete he orbit camera as it doesn't do anything in this plane. Basically an orbit camera gives you the same functionality as the standard camera that comes with your cockpit. But if the camera somehow gets detached from the plane, the views follow the camera. Typically you use the camera for something like a launchable parachutist or a ship's sloop so you can follow the choose between following the aircraft flying on or the parachutist jumping (or the ship and the sloop.) Here, as you already have a cockpit with camera, you won't need the extra one.
+1Nice little plane with a great look.
+1A tailhook on an F-16?????
+1Wait, is this just a tutorial plane in blue with a 5-blade propellers?
+1Congratulations
+1@MonsNotTheMonster I'll drive by the airport and see if it is out there so I can take a picture
+1Whish I would have known about your problems with the cowling. We have one of them parked at our local airport. Some local enthusiast with too much money spends his time restoring and flying it.
+1@WinsWings I sent a link on discord for the first draft of the tutorial
+1Nice plane, love the details, still, 500mph in forward flight? Me thinks you is a little overpowered
+1@WinsWings still writing my tutorial, but ll take it for a little spin after work tomorrow
+1@WinsWings works pretty good. In fact I got most of my starting knowledge from this tutorial . My only gripe is that the RCN nozzles could be explained better. (From what I know now) They are SimplePlanes' solution to moving the plane in hover mode
+1Love this plane. It's well thought-out with many details other builders, especially with less than one year of experience, either overlook or don't care about. Also, again like many other planes of builders with more experience, the flying characteristics are pleasant and generally free of vices. And the incide view from the cockpit adds a nice layer of complexity. Congratulations.
+1@WinsWings yea, see me grow. Now I already got 1/70 of your points. At that rate I might overtake you by 2050
+1@WinsWings then you might consider changing the input for the rear engine from '
'Throttle' to 'Throttle+a*Trim+b*Pitch' with a around 0.5 and b about 0.2. the exact numbers will depend on tht aircraft and will have to be tweaked by lots of flight testing.
Look how I did with my Golden Rocketship. The front bottom 2 engines do the trim, the Pitch is added to the rear bottom 2 engines. (The clamp(rate(Altitude)-0.5, -1,0) factor is the automatic descent control. It kicks in when the rate of descent is bigger than 0.5....)
+1@Ninja451 if you need some ideas on how to make a wing brake, a year ago, I uploaded a demonstrator aircraft that uses a dummy wing bureied inside the main wing to 'pull out' air brakes. May be you can take a look.
Cigogne-STOL-testbed
The dummy wing is symmetrical.so it doesn't affect the main wing when flying. It's drag is set to 5 in xml
+1Nice upgrade from the previous plane. However still no limiter on the engine travel, meaning you can crash it k to your own fuselage if you're not carefully and pull Trim too far down. Also for my taste it relies too much on the gyro with for instance roll and yaw not even possible by areodynamical means (ailerons and rudders are for show only). Still visually a feast to behold
+1This is hands down the easiest plane to land on an aircraft carrier. Especially if you tweak the air brakes to deploy on (engine) brake as well.
+1@Ninja451 couple pf quick things:
1) The vertical control surfaces on the twin fins move the wrong way Change the value for 'control.surface-invert' from False to true
2) set the value for auto-center for tht cockpit camera from 'true' to 'false' so you can look around in tht cockpit
3) the joystick in the cockpit has a value 'length' play with it until you can just see the top of the joystick.while looking straight ahead
Also:
+1+ The writings on the switches in the Cockpit are really hard to read. May be use a different color
+ Landing is really hard. You need to at least quadruple tht since of tht air brakes to have any effect: increase their 'drag' value, use a large dummy wing as air brake or five the plane a braking parachute.
@Ninja451 ok, give me a couple of hours to fly around in it and if I find something, I will let you know
+1@Mitterbin I since uploaded a version with custom XML flaps. Check it out HERE
+1You did notice your tailplanes move down when they should move up?
+1I have no problems with taking off. Just pull the flaps, increase throttle slowly and the plane will take off by itself. Landing, like you said is a little trickier. But just keeping the throttle at 10% instead of zero until your wheels hit the tarmac usually will do. For a taildragger braking is remarkably trouble-free. No rolling over when you brake too hard... Most of the time
+1Three inprovement suggestions:
1) when you put the throttle governor at 0% it always runs the rotor at optimal speed, regardless wether the power is on or off. Set it to 5% so it won't rotate until you push Activate1. (Do this for main and tail rotor)
2) if you use the flight controller instead of the standard cockpit, make sure the controller is installed with the flat past facing down otherwise your 'chase view' will be upside down. Rotate the one you installed from 180° back to 0
3) set the roll range of your gyroscope to something like 20° instead of 0 in order otherwise the gyro directly counteracts all the roll input from the right joystick.
Otherwise a pretty nice heli to fly around in. Especially for only 68 parts
+1@Destwoy01 naa, the trimming on the fuselage was the only 'custom' paint parts, the rest were all regular components,.just colored differently.
+1Forget the crop duster. You should market this one as an ULM. With a top speed of 100 mph and a stall speed of 50, it comes pretty close to that ULM feeling.
+1Still got that leftover engine? I got a leftover plane from the sixties that could use an upgrade.
+1Plus sides: beautifully historically accurate cockpit, even for only 200 parts. Minus: no flaps, still standard wings. Flying: pretty pleasant, although I would wish for a top speed more like the original's 500 mph.
+1Worth downloading: yes
Worth flying: yes
Worth upvoting: just did
Takes a little tweaking, but after that it flies remarkably well. Not bad for a first try...
+1Wasn't that the one that crashed because tht autopilot kept pushing its nose down?
+1Congratulations on hitting silver. And congratulations on a plane with more automated features than most of the cars I ever drove.
+1I second @DARZAVIATION: it would be nice to choose which parts you do NOT want to mirror I keep having that -well, it's not really a problem, rather an inconvenience- that if I have to redo something on both sides of the plane and I already have a cockpit interior, I can either do both sides by hand or mirror and redo the cockpit ( all instruments and flight controls are mirrored by default. I think just having an offset to define which CENTER Or FUSELAGE parts should not be mirrored would already go a long way.
The same thing with flaps and ailerons, especially when you use funky code to mix ailerons with pitch or flaps. When you mirror your wing, you are almost certain to have to rewrite half of the code. I could live though with just the option: replace parts already mirrored/leave parts already mirrored for leaving the old wing as is even if you replace the tips.
+1Eagerly awaiting the next version.
+1Not bad for 72 parts. And a nice color scheme as well (I would have wished for some insignias though) . Also the first thing I had to do is put 200 lb of extra weight in the nose to keep it from constantly stalling
+1I agree. This plane should have gotten a dozen upvotes 4 months ago.
+1